Via Alpina, yellow trail, B05-B06, 24.-25. 06. 2017
 
 
 

Via Alpina, yellow trail, B05-B06, 24.-25. 06. 2017

Last year's good experience with the first four stages of the yellow part of Via Alpina Trail, which we began in Koper/Capodistria (Slovenia) and concluded in Gorizia (Italy), inspired us to continue. The path continues along the Slovene-Italian border, so it wasn't difficult to find the motivation to go on. The preparations started quite a while ago, with finding the beginning of stage five in Gorizia. This wasn't difficult with the Via Alpina Gelber Weg guide (Evamaria Wecker). What concerned us was the information that there wasn't going to be any stores, the opening hours of the mountain cabins are limited, plus the trail ascends and descends quite a lot. We concluded that it is practically impossible to complete the entire yellow trail in one sitting, but would be happy with about ten stages under our belt. This time we planned to walk for 3-4 days and reach the altitude of Kobarid (Caporetto) in Slovenia, which would be a nice beginning for a following stretch. We had checked the weather, but we didn't have high hopes for it to be favourable. Either we''ll have scorching heat or rain and storm. We decided to try anyway, not pinpointing an exact stopping point. Due to the intense heat on the first day and stormy weather on the second we only made stages B05 and B06. No regrets. More on the trail is written below the pictures.
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Six differently coloured trails of the Via Alpina stretch across Europe. We chose the yellow one and decided to experience the world in this way. This year's stages are labeled B05 and B06.  This is the equipment for one backpack. We opted out the tent, because it wouldn't have been needed on this part of the trail. Two or three sets of clothes (one of those with long sleeves), sleeping bag, foam mat, rain poncho, travel towel (quick drying), blister patches, toothpaste and toothbrush, soap, needle and thread, headlamp, documents (ID, insurance), money, two 1.5 l bottles of water...  Food for about 4 days. We calculated 250 g of spaghetti for each dinner for both. Don't forget the salt for the water!  We drove to the train station in Most na Soči where we took the train to Nova Gorica at 5.26.  Deatil of the official map with the travelled stages B05 and B06. Bottom right is Gorizia, in the middle is the goal for the first day in Castelmonte and the top contains the goal for the second day: Casoni Solarie. The guide book (Evamaria Wecker) states that B05 is 48 km long and ascends for 1250 m and descends for 730 m, while B06 spans for 23 km, ascends for 980 m and descends for 630 m. Enough for the kind of weather that we had.  From the train station in Nova Gorica we stepped through the building to Gorizia on the other side (or as we Slovenians call it, Old Gorica) in Italy. The journey started at 6.10. It begins straight ahead, then turns left, but we keep on the right side.  The border between Slovenia and Italy.  A morning stroll along the streets of Gorizia.  Over the bridge above the river Soča (Isonzo) and then left.  Soča is still asleep.  We soon meet our first official marking on the crossroads (Pizzeria Locanda Goriziana), where the trail branches off to the right to a narrow valley.  Today's stage goes mainly on asphalt roads. This one leads us to a village called Bucuie.  Nice wall.  The previous picture reminded us that we were in the wine region of Collio, going towards Valierisce. The scenerey changed abruptly.  In Valerisce we need to be careful. The red-and-white marks lead us left, but the guide claims we need to go right. We went right in the direction of Giasbana, but we probably would have reached the trail anyway. 
Mostly vineyards, but there is an abundance of fig trees, cherry trees, apricots and other fruits as well.  An interesting pinecone.  Now THIS is a fig. Ripe, delicious, why did it stay at one?  We leave the hilly vineyards behind and reach a nicely groomed roundabout on the flat area with the Slovene border right behind it.  By the asphalt road (that we are going to leave for a while in a bit) we find the Via Alpina mark. We haven't seen a circular one before.  We exchange the asphalt for a gravel road next to the St. Mary church (Chiesa S. Maria del Preval).  A nicely arranged road.  After about 3 hours of walking the sun began to show and the heat began to rise. We figured it would reach about 35 degrees C (about 95 F) and it certainly felt that way.  Vineyards as far as the eye can see.  At the 4 hour mark we reach the other side of a hill called Quarin and we gaze upon Cormons.  Cormons.  Above the town of Cormons there is a church called Beata Vergina del Soccorso.  The church was prepped for a wedding and the wedding guests slowly trickled in.  From the beginning to the church we had about 20 km or less than 5 hours. We needed refreshment and the public tap offered everything we needed. We cooled off and removed the sweat from the heat.  Rest. 
After a 30 min break we continue along the asphalt road and turn right into the woods at a sharp left bend.  The path starts nicely, but then it becomes damaged from the flowing water.  We leave the forest and connect with the asphalt again. We decide to make a shortcut and leave out Ruttars, because of the heat.  We admired Ruttars from below instead. Next to this hut there is a drinkable water tap.  Fort above the road.  Well maintained.  ... apart from the road. A bunch of cans and bottles.  We had another option to choose from right before Venco. We could go left on the road again or take a right turn through what appeared to be a forest (blame the map). We chose the right one, but the sparse vegetation and the sun, beating directly from above, combined with some uphill walking was a bad choice.  It's 14.00 after a steep climb. The wind blew from time to time, but the lack of clouds was disheartening.  On the top of the climb we gaze upon our today's goal, Castelmonte. Huh, far away.  When we descend to a vineyard ornamented village Scrio we decide to cut the stage short due to extreme heat. The human body cannot function properly if it overheats, just as an overheated processor slows down the computer.  In Scrio we cool off, hydrate and top off our water supplies. We follow the abundant markings.  The trail leads to a forest with a distinct lack of shade.  When we arrive at Restocina, we realise there is only one way to go - up to Castelmonte.  The markings lead us leftwise in the direction of Centa, where there is a B&B. We figured we would have stopped for the night if the weather forecast had been better the following day. Since we wanted to complete the second stage before the rain arrived, we followed the initial goal. 
The path goes from Centa to Castelmonte, but we ended up on the road, hitchhiking.  The two Italians in this car pulled over and gave us a lift to Castelmonte, saving us at least two hours of walking uphill. The driver admitted we were the first people he ever picked up. Thanks again!  Stage B05 from Gorizia to Castelmonte was, for us, 35 km long and had less than 1000 m uphill and almost as much downhill. Without the lift the total ascent would have been 300 m longer, which fits the description in the guide book. The total length of the stage is about 48 km, so we recommend hitchhiking, public transport, cutting it short or using shortcuts.  The sign for Kolovrat was most interesting for us. It showed us the way to our goal for the following day. Mind you, the trail doesn't follow this sign, but a red-and-white mark on the wall on the top parking lot.  The view of Matajur from the Castelmonte castle. We kinda still had hope of reaching it at that time, but the circumstances of the following day changed that viewpoint.  Castelmonte. Lovely to see.  Casa del Pellegrino, where we spent the night.  The view from our room window to the bottom parking lot.  A soft bed and a shower. Tons of shower! :)  After the initial cooldown I began planning the trail for the following day. The weather forecast promised the majority of rain to arrive later that day, which would give us enough time to complete the 20 km segment.  Well deserved Belgian beer, but the chips (crisps, for all you Brits ;)) felt even better.  I must get a hold of this delicious beer somewhere. I had two with an extra bowl of chips. Then we had a spaghetti dinner and some well-deserved sleep. At 4 am thunder started to rumble and it began to rain at five...  Stage B06 goes from Castelmonte to Kolovrat, or more precisely, the Casoni Solarie refuge. The official length of the stage is 23 km, or more than 8 hours. We predicted we could arrive sooner, because we wanted to reach a roof over our heads before the storm.  A bit after six the rain dissipated and we checked out at 6.40.  The short street to the top parking lot. 
The marked entrance to some stairs and the onset of our path.  The majority of the trail we follow trail nr. 747, and then close the end, at Clabuzzaro, we start following trail nr. 746.  Yesterday it was hot and dry, now it was hot and humid. Comparable to Turkish sauna. The trail from Castelmonte first leads downwards, then the markings take us left and up in a sharp turn.  After 30 min of climbing we reach asphalt.  But not for long, since we soon leave it again, up. :(  We rise to the church of St. Nicola across fields, where the humidity loses a bit of its grip.  Way back. The clouds seem to hold back for now.  At 7.50 or after 4 km of walking we reach the church of St. Nikola, followed by a more gradual path with no serious climbs or drops. Of course, let's not forget a hill called Cum.  What? That much to Clabuzzaro, which is only a bit before the end? Well, we are planning a shorter trek due to lack of scenery and the storm right on our heels. The majority of this stretch coincides with the Alpe Adria trail, along with trail 747, but the signs for Via Alpina have mysteriously vanished  Left across the field.  Matajur with a threatening cap of black clouds. According to our psychophysical state and the upcoming weather we decided to leave it out.  The trail touches the road here and there. The occasional contact with civilization is good in case there is an emergency.  We encounter remnants of World War I. Trenches, hollows ... Below is the valley of river Idrija (not to be confused with the river Idrijca, which flows through the town of Idrija).  We ignored the time not to dampen our spirits.  By the road, in the middle of nowhere we encounter the church of St. Ivan (San Giovanni). Later we meet a group of people who didn't seem like hikers, more like visitors of the church. 
The path to the next contact with civilization. Based on past experience we can conclude that the trail is truly beautiful if the weather is right and the slopes are easy to forget.  A place to crash if anything happens.  B&B in the hamlet of Varch, about 10 km from the beginning in Castelmonte, or about 2.5 h. On the halfway point of the stage.  We follow the trail to a hamlet with an interesting name Klinec (Clinaz), which means "kid" or "prick" in Slovene. Is the trail trying to tell us something?  Just a couple 100 m of asphalt back to soft ground.  Before we reach Klinec we make a sharp left turn, following the markings.  After Klinec we see a village called Gnidovizza.  At ten after 3 h of walking or about 12 km we reach Gnidovizza, a well populated, if remote, village. There was no need to stop and refill, even though we kept ourselves well hydrated. There is a water spout after the village, but the sign says the water is not drinkable.  A forest path takes us close to Tribil Superiore, but we turn right and down before we reach it. The Alpe Adria Trail signs start counting down the kms to our goal and 13 km back to Castelmonte. The hill before us is Cum with an altitude of 912 m, which means at least 300 m of going uphill. Sounds doable?!  My eye caught a (probably) wooden statue of a farmer with a basket and a cane. The village iself remained unvisited, since the thunder kept getting louder.  The way to Cum.  Following the markings. It begins with a short stretch of grass, a few zig-zags through the forest and then directly up. We were foaming from the slope and the horrifying humidity.  A bit before reaching the top we find a closed cottage. A short break to catch our breath, then onward.  The peak of Cum, reached at eleven, after 15 km of walking. Altitude is 912 m, no view, just a thick coat of foliage.  Interesting. According to the Italian spelling we would expect the Slovene version to be Kum, not Hum. Anyway, it is a legitimate peak on the trail. The only bypass is by staying on the road, but we don't know if it were any easier/shorter. 
Facial expressions say it all. Bojana was completely drained from the humidity and the muddy slope, so we were thankful to start walking downwards. I was in a better condition, but I too thought that I had had enough of this inhumane weather. It is simply not worth it.  No pictures from the descent. Why? Shortly after the peak we were blasted by a torrent of heavy rain, hurricane levels of wind, light hail and broken branches. I was lucky to have Bojana with me, since I couldn't see one step infront of me due to the rain and foggy glasses and she helped me navigate the muddy path that quickly became a small stream. I did not want to reach the bottom on my bottom. When we finally reached Rucchin (11.46), we sought shelter in a bus stop. A light snack, a quick drink, safety check and onward in a drizzle.  The trail leads us toward the church of St. Stoblank (Štoblank/Štuoblank) or San Volfango. We took the main road.  What happened here? What a mess ... The path leads right on the gravel road to the church, but we thought it might be muddy.  ... broken branches ... I don't know what Drenchia means, but Bojana found it absurdly funny, since "drenched" was exactly the state we were in.  ... rocks on the road. A few meters before an operational school we turn right towards the cemetery.  Info on the cemetery, which dates back to World War I.  Details.  The same in Slovene. Apparently the cemetery used to contain about 500 Italian soldiers, including the first ever Italian soldier to fall during this war, Riccardo Di Giusto, after crossing the Solarie pass on May 24th 1915. The remains are now kept in Udine.  Deatil. A century later the area is completely overgrown.  Detail.  We leave the cemetery and follow the path to Clabuzzaro, which is only a stone throw away from the end of the stage.  Again with the asphalt, where we meet the Via Alpina mark to Clabuzzaro.  Not much further...  After the storm we see Matajur again. The dot at the top is the church. From this stage it doesn't seem as far as before, but unfortunately the next stage takes us down to the bottom of the valley and then up again. Anyway, we agreed, if we ever want to continue, that we would rather take the path to Livek on the Slovene side of Matajur, which avoids the unnecessary descent and a 1000 m climb back up. 
Just before Clabuzzaro (20 km, 6.5 h) we start following path nr. 746. It leads us through the idyllic Italian village.  A bit of history in Clabuzzaro.  Detail.  Detail.  Detail.  Detail.  An interesting garden. Bojana mentioned someone called Hari Poter, but I keep mixing him with the elves and the guys with hairy feet. (On the bottom half of the crest there is a hand in a black robe, holding a wand. B.)  Despite being mere minutes from the finish line, we made a break, sent a few messages and then made the final km, starting above the village.  The way to victory. Here we meet a group of six hikers, probably on the Alpe Adria Trail. If they intended to make the entire stage (it doesn't stop at Castelmonte, but further down in the valley), they would need to go a long way, mildly put.  MHS on the way (Monument to Human Stupidity).  Finally! After 21 km and 7 h 20 min of being on the way (at 2 pm) we reach Solarie, next to the border between Slovenia and Italy.  This is a nice place to stop. A hefty meal, a change of clothes, not to mention the soaked boots, and a beer. The sun was pleasantly shining, so we took our time.  Google Earth says the stage was 21 km long, had 1700 m of ascent and 1300 m of descent, but I would rather believe the guide book, which says there was 1000 m of ascent and 600 m of descent and the length closer to 23 than 21 km. The profile shows that the path is quite lively with some steep slopes. With this in mind we wouldn't classify it as easy, but it is really easy to navigate, has no views and just right in the appropriate weather.  After the break we decided to finish our expedition, since the hiking boots were completely drenched and wouldn't have dried up until morning. We were still quite happy with the two stages nad would probably continue someday towards Matajur.  The third stage (B07) goes left and we go right towards Slovenia. 
Why is the road going up if we want down?  Looking back to the church of St. Stoblank (Štoblank/Štuoblank) or San Volfango and Cum.  We follow the road to the right, surely it will take us to Volče.  Whoah. We weathered quite a storm. At this stage I check the navigation after an hour of walking and find out that we completely missed a turn ... 5 km back. So, right after the pass we should have gone towards Livek and THEN turn right towards Volče, not immediately toward Kambreški. No way we go back up. So I find an alternative through Volčanski Ruti, so we backtracked a bit to a branching gravel road, where we walked for an hour. The heavy rain started again and the ponchos we had with us were completely useless. Luckily we were spared the wind.  So, after an hour we reached civilization where a group of firemen tried to protect a roofless building, a freshly re-roofed house got its chimney upturned and a part of the roof got thrown into a potato patch. Enough is enough, so we called my dad in Cerkno to pick us up. The owner of the homestead offered us schnapps and hot tea. According to her there was a hurricane coming from Matajur, just like the ones you see people chase on TV (in Soviet Russia the hurricane chases you) and tore off the roof of the building. Luckily we managed to avoid the hurricane and we had no intentions to have flying lessons. Looking back on stages B05 and B06 of the yellow Via Alpina trail, we had some extreme weather, so it would be better to attempt it in spring or in autumn, paying closer attention to the opening hours of the mountain cottages. Are we going again? Most likely, but only in daily doses.